Machine for making feather-lined and similar material



Sept. 7 192s. 1,599,386

F. WEVER "MACHINE .FOR MAKING FEATHER LINED AND SIMILAR IATERIAL Filed May 15, 1922 12 Sheets-Sheet 1 mm gnaw/km.

Sept. 7 1926.

F. WEVER MACHINE FOR MAKING FEATHER LINED AND SIMILAR MATERIAL Filed May 15. 1922 12 Sheets-sheet 2 Sept. 7 1926.

F. WEVER MACHINE FOR MAKING FEATHER LINED AND SIMILAR MATERIAL Filed May 15, 1922 12 SheetsSheat' s 7 F. WEVER momma FOR MAKING FEATHER LINED AND SIMILAR MATERIAL Filed May 15,, 1922 12 Sheets-Shei 4 J1me!!! Sept. 7 1926.

v F. WEVER MACHINE FOR MAKING FEATHER LINED AND SIMILAR MATERIAL Filed May 15, 1922 I 12 Sheets-Shet 5 Sept. 7 1926.

F. NEVER MACHINE FOR MAKING FEATHER LINED AND SIMILAR MATERIAL 12 Sheets-sheaf 6 Jill/ 12141":

Filed May 15,

Sept. 7 1926.. 1,599,386

F. WEVER v MACHINE FOR MAKING FEATHER LINED AND SIMILAR MATERIAL Filed May 15, .1922 12 sh ets-sheet 'z VIII/111011 J12 venfoz- Sept. 7 1926.

F. WEVER MACHINE FOR MAKING FEATHER LINED AND SIMILAR MATERIAL Filed May 15, 1922 12 Sheets-Sheet 8 m ea F. WEVER umcamaroa wane FEATHER LINED AND smug MATERIAL Filed May 15, 1922 12 SheetQ-Sheei 9 Sept. 7,1926. 1,599,386 F. WEVER Y MACHINE FOR MAKING FEATHER LINED AND SIMILAR MATERIAL Filed May 15, 1922 12 Sheets-$he 1o Sept. 1, 1926; 1,599,386

F. WEVER mcams FOR MAKING FEATHER LINED AND smxum MATERIAL Filed May 15, 1922 12 Sheets-Sheet 11 Sept. :7, 1926. 1,599,386

F. WEVER momma FOR MAKING FEATHER LINED AND smmm MATERIAL Filed May 15, 1922 12 Sheets-Sheet 12 exterior covering.

Patented Sept. 7, 1926. I

UNITED STA rsaasac 'rnrrz w'nvnn, ors ru'rreanr, GERMANY; HENRI MAB-MIGNAT nnnmrs'ran'ron or I SAID rnrrz WEVER; DECEASED.

IIACHINE FOR MAKING FEATHER-LINED,AND SIMILAR MATERIAL.

Application .fi led May'15, 1922., Serial No. 561.216, and in Germany June ,30, 1921.

This invention relates to the art of makingfur or plumage-like material, and in particular such material as is made by secun ing feathers to supporting layers of sheet material, such as cloth or other textiles. Such material is. adapted for use for cloaks, overcoats and garments'of other descriptions, for. covers and, in general, for all of the uses to. which furs are applied, and it may heiapplied as an inteior lining or an a The invention is designed to furnish means whereby the feathers or similar material are secured in a uniform and even layer to a layer of supporting material, preferably textile material, and in such away that the operation of securing the feathers may be done expeditiously and with accuracy.

With. these objects in view, my invention comprises -ineans for advancing feathers in successive quantities to a sewing or other securing mechanism and at the same tim feeding a band orstrip of textile or other sheet material to the securing-means, the parts being so arranged that the feathers are spread in a flat, even and uniform layer onto the band or strip in successive quantities at a rate of speed conforming to the speed of the sewing or other attaching mechanism. To facilitate and aid this action I also provide means for loosening the feathers and preventing their agglomeration or tendency to stick together in lumps such means being arranged at a point behind the conduit through which the feathers are passed to the attaching mechanism.

For the purpose of further facilitating and simplifying the attachment of the feathers to the supporting layer my invention also comprises a method of first securing the feathers to a strip or band of textile or other suitable material and in then securing such feather-lined strip or band to a broad layer of supporting textile or other material in such a way preferably that the sections of the feather-lined hand so secured are substantially parallel. The ends of the feathers projecting beyond the hand, and thus forming a fringe, in such case he so arranged that each row of feathers overlaps the feathers of the adjoining row, thus forming a plumage-like covering; or the feather fringes or edges may be caused to stand away from the supporting layer, the bands being in such case brought close toscwing apparatus;

gether to give the whole appearance. v I Y,

My invention, moreover, comprises details of construction and arrangement, and such other features-methods, means and combinations of parts as will be hereinafter set forth and more particularly pointed out 'inthe' claims forming partlof this specification.

In the accompanying drawings I [have shown WhatI consider the preferred manher of carr ing my invention into practice.

a fur or plush-like In these drawings Figs. 1 and 2 are perspective views'of a portion of a fabrlc strip or band With feathers secured thereto under my invention, showing two successive stages of comple tion; 0 Fig. 3, a similar viewlofa supporting fabric la-yer'having such fabric strips secured thereto to form the'completed fabric;

TEs P TENroFFics.

Figs. l and 5,21 plan and a perspective view, respectively,of another-form of feather"- carrying strip or band in two successive stages of completion; 7

Fig. 6, a perspective view, showing the feather-carrying stripsassembled and se' cured to a supporting fabric layer; I

Fig. '7, a sewing apparatus for securing a feather-carrying strip to an endless supportinc; fabric layer, showing the operation of attachment.

, Fig. 8, a side elevation of the left-hand portion, and Y Fig. 9, a similar view of the right-hand portion of an apparatus for carrying out the process under my invention;

Fig. 10, a front elevation of a portion of the device represented inFig. 8;

Fig. 11, a plan view of the sewing appa-.

rat-us .and adjacent parts. represented. in

Fig. 11*, a detail view of some parts thereof;

Fig. 12, a vertical cross-section on line 1 AB of Fig. 9;

Figs. 13, 14, 15 and 16 represent cross sections ofthe actuating device for the feedroller connected with the main shaftof the Fig. 17 a perspective view'of the sewing apparatus;

Fig. 18, a similar view, on an enlarged scale, of the, mouth-piece leading to the latter;

Fig. 19, a verticalsectional elevation of a portion of the feather-hopper with the stripping and advancing parts;

Fig. 19 a similar view of the stripping and advancing parts on a reduced scale;

ani sin Figs. 24:, 25 and 26 are detail views of the valve-device arranged in feather ductor conduit; 6

Figs. 27 and 28 represent a modification in vertical section and plan, respectively; 7 Fig. 29, a plan of the compressed-air duct or pipe of same showing the exhaust mechanism;

Fig. 30, a detail View in sectional side elevation of said mechanism;

Fig. 31 represents a further modification in sectional side elevation;

Figs 31, 31 and 31are a side view, a vertical sectional elevation and a plan View, respectively of a presser foot on an enlarged scale;

Fig. 32, a plan view on the scale of Fig. 31;

Fig. 33, a sectional detail view of the same;

Fi and b v Figs. 84 and 35, a vertical section and a plan, respectively, of a pasting apparatus, which may be employed in carrying out my new process.

In all the figures the same parts are indicated by the same reference characters.

In carrying out my invention, feathers of any suitable or desired kind are secured to a strip or band of any suitable sheet material, such as textile fabric, in such a manner as to extend laterally beyond such strip or band to form a fringe-like or scalloped edge on one or on both sides of the strip or band.

In Figs. 1 and 2 I have shown one form of such feather-lined strip or band 15 in successive stages of formation. From said figures it will be seen that feathers F are first spread over the band or strip 66 so as 33*, a detail side view of the same;

to mainly extend laterally only to one side of the same, whereupon they are secured to said band or strip by two rows of plain stitching 661. In thus spreading and securing the feathers to the strip or band, the feathers will also project to a small extent beyond the edge 662 opposite to the fringed feather edge. In order to make this edge accurately straight, the small projecting portionsof the feathers are there bent over onto the strip or band and secured thereto by a line of cross-stitching 663, as seen in Figs. 2 and 3, or by other suitable means.

The feather-fringe strips or bands thus obtained are then secured, by stitching or otherwise, in substantially parallel arrangement to a supporting layer 6 1 of sheet material, such as textile fabric of any desired description, as will be understood from an inspection of Fig. 3, wherein 641 indicates the line of stitching employed for this purpose. From this figure it will also be noted that the feather-fringes each overlap the feather-layers of the adjacent bands or .strips so as to form a flat scale-like or plumagelilre surface. This arrangement is particularly adapted for the longer and stiffer qualities of feathers.

Where the softer grades of feathers, such as the softer tail feathers or what are known as boa-feathers, are to be employed, the method of securing them to the supporting layer illustrated in Figs. 4 to 6 is by preference employed. The feathers are here again secured to a band or strip 66 by a double row of stitching 661, but with this difference that the feathers are now disposed so as to extend substantially to an equal extent to both sides of the strip or band, thus forminga fringed edge at each side of thesaid strip or band. The doublefringed band or strip is then bent longitudinally along its middle line so as to form an acute angle in crosssection, or to be substantially parallel, as shown in Fig. 5, and secured in this shape in any desired or suitable manner. In the present case a line of stitching made by a two-needle sewing apparatus is employed. Or the connection may be effected in any other suitable way. The double-fringed strips or bands are then secured to the supporting layer 64: in substantially parallel rows so as to extend away from and to be substantially perpendicular thereto, as seen in Fig. 6, and in such proximity to each other that the completed fabric has a fur-like appearance.

As indicated in Figs. 1 and 4, the feathers are generally applied to the hand. or strip 66 in a uniform flat layer and in indiscriminate arrangement, that is to say, notaccurately spaced or aligned, the quills of the feathers preferably extending in a direction generally transverse to the band or strip.

I find it advantageous to apply the feathers to a band of considerable length, or in the form of a web, in a continuous operation and to attach said web or band, after the feathers have been secured thereto, to the supporting layer 64 in one centinuous operation. This manner of securing is illustrated in Fig. '7, where 72 represents sewing apparatus of any suitable and desired construe-- tion and the supporting fabric layer whose ends are secured together, as shown at 79, so as to form an endless sheet or roller 0 which extends longitudinally over its en-' tire surface and whose coils are sufiiciently close together to form in substance'parallel straight lines arranged at the desired distance from one another. Along this helical line the feather-fringed strip or band 66 is secured to the supporting layer ea. When this securing operation has'been completed and the supporting fabric has been covered with the feather strip or band, tie securing connection at 79 is severedand the completed material is ready for use, to be made into garments and employed for other purposes for which it is fitted.

In Figs. 8 to 26 l have represented amachine embodyin my invention which is particularly adapted for uniformly, cont-inuously and successively securing the feathers to a narrow band or strip. posethe machine, as will be seen from the following, is adapted to convey the feathers in a perfectly loose condition and in small allotments to the point'where they are. secured to said band or strip. It must be noted, however, that, while the apparatus disclosed in these figures V is particularly adapted for this special purpose, it may with slight modifications be also employed for applying or securing the feathers to broad supporting layers.

In these figures 1 represents the supply hopper or holder through which the feathers are introduced into the apparatus. The supply hopper is provided at two opposite vertical walls with longitudinal ribs l designed to facilitate the downward motion of the feather-charge by its weight, and to enable the current of suction air to pass into every portion of the hopper and thus to act uniformly on the feather-charge. These ibs appear in Figs. 8 and 19. As seen in Figs. 8, 10, 19 and 20, the lower end or outlet portion 1 of the hopper is furnished with a device for retaining the feathercharge and for withdrawing the feathers in small quantities to be successively delivered for further treatment by the apparatus.

. This device comprises a SGIlGS of longitudina-l ribs 1*, preferably arranged on the wall of the hopper, which lies between the walls on which the ribs 1 are formed, a roller 2 provided with picker-needles 2 and a provided with stripping forks 8 arranged below and adjacent to thepickerneedle roller 2 and in such position that the forks will straddle or engage the pickerneedles 2 as they pass the stripping fork roller, and that said fork will just clear the lower edges of the ribs 1 As shown, the ribs l have a curved contour corresponding to the path of the picker-needles 2 n The picker-needle roller 2 and the stripping fork roller 3 are caused to rotate in For such pun.

permit i the feathers, as they the direction indicated by the arrows in Fig. 8 and 19; thatis to say, so that, as the picker-needles 2 move downward'and outward, thestr pping forks which engage or straddle these needles, best seen in i 19, move inward and upward and past the lowercornexs of the ribs 1*, thus stripping the feathers in contact with the Pi'ClKQlT- needles 2-, from them and pastthe l The piclrereneedles beside their rotary movem nt, have a radially reciprocating motion so advszince they enter the hopper, and then to be retracted as they leave the hopper, said reciprocating movementbeinp; imparted to them a foam groove 2 indicated in Figs. 81 and '22, the needles 2 being also radially guided by studs thereon engaginrrradial slots 9 Figs. 19 and 23, of the needle supports. The de tailsof the needle reciprocating device being already disclosed in my German Patent l o. 330,444, issued December 14,1920, an not constituting per a part of my pr t inyention, need not be further described acrein. I

The lower portion. of thehopperis provided with slots 1, Figs. mit the entrance of the into the hopper.

In order to counteract anytendency in the feathers to aggloinerate' or to f i S picker-needles 2 lumps. I provide for loosenin the feathers between the holder and the cohduit for feeding the feathers to the attaching device. These means the figures now under cons oration comprise a suction-pipe anst pump or blower. 5, an expansion'drum 6, a horizontal drum 7 ro'ided with rotary conveyor arms 7 and t 1' ing'g in a suction. pipe 8 equipped with a trap or valve 9. The arrangement and construction of these parts in d il arc,'as follows:

The hopper lterminates in a downwardly conver and the strippinc fork shaft- 8. the lower portion con unica-tinpr "h the s ion pipe at? its in]. .which sn u pipe leads to the exhaust pump or r 3, whose outlets or exit orifice 5t communicates with and opens into the expansion drum 6, havwire-cloth or otherwise perforated sides through which compressed air escapeathus the lower orifice 6 to freely drop horizontal drum 7 at the (l near one side andeiid of sad drum. tihorizontal shaft 7' journale'd bearings 7 27?. can tends centrally throughlsaid drum 8 and 10). Said shaft carries a series radial arms 7 arranged .thereonhelically so to forms helical conveyor which not only imparts a centr ion portion l below the ribs 1 oal movement to the feathers, but propel'sthem to the end the drum opposite'to that where they enter said drum, thereby forming a thin stream or band of feathers which is in motion toward the outlet 7, of the drum 7, arranged diagonally opposite the inlet or orifice A second suction pump or blower 8 serves to exhaust the air from the drum 7 through the outlet 7 communicating therewith by means of suction-pipe 8 In order to regulate the amount of feathers withdrawn from the drum 7 by the suction pump 8 and to time such withdrawal, a trap or valve 9 is arranged in the suctionpipe 8 at an intermediate point, as seen in Figs. 8 and 10, the mechanism for periodically opening and closing said. trap or valve being represented in detail in Figs. 24 to 26, inclusive. Thetrap or valve 9 is arranged to roclr or oscillate on thepivot or journal 9 and is rigidly connected with the rocklever 9 provided with a friction roller at its end, while a spring 9, connected to the rock-lever 9 at one end and. to the suctionpipe S at the other tends to yieldingly press the trap or valve 9 against its seat 99 with in said suction-pipe. The rock-lever 9 is yieldingly held against the periphery of the cam or wiper 9 by the springS), the said cam or wiper being mounted on the rotary shaft- 9 which is caused to rotate by the pulley 9 keyed thereto and receiving power from any desired source through the belt 9 Fig. 8. Said belt 9 preferably receives its motion from the sewing or feather-at taching mechanism by suitable intermediate gearing. The shaft 9 being caused to rotate in the direction of the arrow in Figs. 8 and 24-, the wiper 9 causes the rock-lever 9 to rock from the full-line position in Fig. 2a to the dotted position of said figure against the stress of the spring 9, thereby opening the trap or valve 9, maintaining said lever and valve in such open position for a period of time governed by the length of that part of the periphery of said cam which is the most remote from the centre of rotation, as will be readily understood. In order to vary the length of the periods during which the valve is to remain open, the cam or wiper is composed of two superimposed cam-dislrs I and II, which may be shifted axially one with respect to the other, thereby decreasing or increasing the lengtlf of the valve-opening part of the cam-periphery 9. For this purpose each cam-disk is provided with a hub 9 encircling the shaft 9 and adapted to be fixed thereon by a set screw 9 lam-disk I is provided with a slot 9 concentric to the shaft 9 and camdislr H with a screw-stud 9 passing through and engaging said slot. When the disks rave been adjusted to the desired relative position, for which purpose the set-screws 9 must first be loosened, they are secured in the new position of adjustment by tightening a clamp-nut 9 engaging the screwstud 9 the set-screws 9 being then again tightened on the shaft 9*.

The suction pump 8 blows the air and the feathers from the suction-pipe 8 through the conduit or pipe 1Ov into the featherspreading device in which the conduit or pipe terminates, and which, as seen in Figs. 9, 11, 17 and 18, is in the form of a nozzle or mouthpiece 11 having imperforate walls arranged behind and adjacent to the sewing mechanism, and removably connected to the forward end of the conduit 10, as seen in Figs. 9 and 11. As best disclosed in Fig. 18, the orifice of the said mouthpiece is furnished with a yielding feather-retaining device or detent comprising an upper set of prongs or fingers 11 preferably of resilient material, and a lower series of ribs 11 preferably arranged in staggered relation to the said prongs so that each of said prongs will lie opposite the interval between two ribs. These prongs co-operate with the ribs to arrest the feathers in their passage through the nozzle and to cause them to lie transversely over the ribs. The prongs 11 are in the form of a rake which is longitudinally adjustable on the mouthpiece or nozzle by being mounted in its supports 11 by a screw pin and slot connection 11, as will be readily understood from Fig. 1.8. The interior surface of the mouthpieceis provided with a series of longitudinal ribs 11 extending to the orifice, as shown in Figs. 9 and 18. Such ribs, while permitting the ready escape of the air, serve to prevent the formation of eddy currents of the air which would interfere with the regular and unimpeded issue of the feathers from the orifice. For the same purpose the feedpipe 10 is equipped with a perforated slide 16 having a handle 16 ,the pipe 10 below said slide being so perforated also that when it is desired to permit the escape of, air from the pipe the slide may be so shifted as to cause its perforations to register with those of said pipe. As seen in Figs. 9 and 12, this perforated part of the tube is provided with a series of longitudinal ribs 16 which prevent the feathers from being pressed against the perforations by the air tending to escape when the said p rforations are uncovered, and facilitate their forwardfeed to the orifice by virtue of the greater pressure of the air in the direction of said pipe. At ll the nozzle 11 is provided with a window or transparent covering to enable ready inspection of the interior.

A sewing mechanism adapted to produce the two lines of stitchingshown in Figs. 1

to 6 and comprising the presser foot 13 and needle bar 14-, for carrying the double needle for the two threads 1 f, Fig. 17, is ar ranged in advance of the mouthpiece or nozzle 11, as shown inFigs. 9 and 17. Be-

tween said sewing apparatus and nozzle is arranged a feather-picking mechanism for releasing; successive quantities of feathers from the arresting prongs or fingers 11 and feeding them onto a strip of teather-sup porting material 15, which is fed to the sewing mechanism from the web 1-5 as best seen in 9. This feather-picking mechanism consists of a roller urovided with adlal picker-needles 12 arranged thereon, as best seen inF 9, 1i and 17. These picker-needles are so arranged as to enter the slots between the prongs 11 the roller revolves, and withdraw the feathers held against said prongs by the air current, dropping them onto the band or strip on which they are fed to the needle 14- and under the presser foot 13, as seen in Figs. 9 and 17.

'1" ie'roller 12 carrying the picker-noecles 12 is journaled in a rock-frame 12 pivoted to the machine frame at 12 and yieldingly held against the nozzle 11 as shown by the full lines in Figs/9, 11 and 1:5, by a spring 12 encircling the pivot or ournal 22, Figs. 9 and 11, and may be swung out of the way against the stress of said spring into the dotted-line position indicated in Fig. 9, in order to expose the, parts where the sewing proceeds and'to obtain ready access thereto in case of disturbances or interruptions in the sewing operation. For this purpose the mouthpiece 11 is first removed from the conduit 10.

The main shaft of the sewing mechanism, receiving motion from any suitable source of power, is represented at 25, Figs. 11 and 13. It imparts an intermittentrotary motion to the picker-needle shaft or roller 12 by any suitable intermittent propelling de vice. In the present instance this isaccornplished by means or an eccentric 2 1 ,F1g. 13, which, through rod 24, oscillates a crank 23 otthe friction-clutch device 23, F ig 11, 13, 1 1, 15 and 16, mounted on the journal 22. As will be noted by reference to said Figs. 11, 13, 14-, '15 and 16, the said clutch-device comprises a cylindrical casing 23 keyed to the shaft 22 by a set-screw 23 l/Vithin the casing 23 is aranged the drum 23 keyed to the crank 23, which is loosely mounted on shaft 22, and provided with a number of notches or chambers 22 within each of which is seated at roller23 impelled forward by a spring 23 and just fitting into the space formed by the notch and the inner. wall of the casing 23. When the crank moves in the direction ot the arrow in Fig. 13, and in Fig. 14, which is a cross section on line 14-14 of Fig. 16, looking in the direction of the arrow in. said Fig-, ure, the rollers 23 .will be clamped or wedged between the; casing 23 and the seat of the roller, whereby a partial revolution isimparted to the shaft 22. On the return stroke of the crank 23* the rollers are released and the drum 23 returns to its initial position,the shaft 22 remaining stationary during this return movement. j In order to positivelysecure the said shaft againstfany retrograde movement, a brake drum 23 also loosely mounted on the shaft 22 and Secured to the shaft-bearinging is, arranged in the casing 23, as shown in Figs. 15 and 16, As seen from Fig. 15, thisbrakedrum 23- is provided with notches 22" [and spring rollers 23, similarly to the shaft-actuating clutchdevice 22,"23, but withthe difi'erence that, in this case,the rollers are pressed in the reverse direction by the springs 23. By this means any tendency of the shaft to reverse its rotation on the return stroke of the crank 23 will be immediately arrested by the fact that the rollers 23 will" be claniped between their seats and the casing wall. "The intermittent rotary motion of the journal 22 is transmitted to pickerneedle roller 12 by means of the gear wheels 21 and 21 as shownin Figs. 11 and 11*. The journal or. shaft 22, by means f the int'ermeshing bevel gear-wheels 26, transmits motion to the longitudinal shaft 125, Figs. 11, and. 21." The shaft 125 is provided at its other end with a 'bevel gear-wheel 27 meshing with a bevel gear 28 forming a fixed part'of a disk formed with four concentric crown-gears-29to 32 thereon; The picker-needle shaft 2, as shown in l 10 and 21, has keyed to its end a bevel gear-wheel 36, meshing wih a beveled gearwheel 35, mounted at thelower end of a shaft 34 bearing at'its'upper end a pinion or gear-wheel 33, which is longitudinally shittableon said shaft'34 so as to be adjusted to engage or mesh with any one of the tour crown-gearings v 29 to 32 and adapted to be secured in each position of fmay be vertically shifted and'secured in each position of vertical adjustment by the set-screw, 136. By this arrangement the pinion 33 may becaused to engage any de-' sired One of the, crown-gearings 29 to 32and to be rotatably secured in each position.

As seen in Figs. 19 and 21, motion is'transmitted fromthe picker-needle shaft 2 to the shatt13 carryingthe stripping forks 3 by means of a belt or chain 37.1".unning over pulleys orsprocket-wheels 38 and 39 on the shafts 2 and 3, respectively. 7,

In ordertovary the extent or speed of rotation of the shaft '22 andther'eby the quad.

Iii)

tity of feathers removed from the hopper 1, at each impulse, the end of rod 24, Figs. 11 and 13, is secured to the crank 23 by a pin 23 engaging a slot 23 in said crank and adapted to be secured in any desired position of adjustment, as best seenin Fig. 18.

The suction-pumps and 8 and the radial conveyor arms 7 are actuated from a comfiun main power shaft 5 by means of belts or chains 5 8 and 7 respectively, running over main pulleys or sprocket-wheels 5 and 5 and pulleys 5 8 and 7 respectively, as shown in Fig. 8. The power from said main shaft 5 may also be transmitted, directly or indirectly, to the main shaft 25 of the sewing mechanism and to the pulley 9 Fig. 8.

In operation the feathers as they descend in the hopper 1 are, at the lowermost portion of the hopper, fed downward by the picker-needles 2 as the needle roller 2 revolves in the direction of-the arrow, Fig. 8, until they are taken off from the pickerneedles by the stripper forks 3, rotating as indicated by the arrow, and drawn down past the lower corner of the ribs 1, so as to drop into the downwardly converging portion 4, such action being aided by the draft from the suction-pipe 4. Thence the suction-pump 5 draws them through the pipe 4, dropping them into the expansion drum 6, from which they pass downward into the drum 7 to be'fed therefrom in thin stream passing onward to the exit 7, due to the centrifugal and forwarding action of the helically arrangedradial arms 7. As the valve or trap 9 in the suction-pipe 8 is periodically opened, portions of this feather stream are by the suction-pump 8 drawn in to the feed-tube 10, the quantity of feathers being governed by the time the adjustable valve or trap remains open at each impulse. Through the tube 10 the feathers pass onto the nozzle 11 at the forward end of which they are arrested by the prongs 11, being withdrawn therefrom by the picker-needles 12 of the intermittently revolving needleshaft 12, and deposited on the advancing band or ribbon 15, the band with the feathers thereon then passing under the presser foot 13-, and needle-bar 14 of the sewing mechanisnnwvhere the feathers are connected to the band or ribbon by stitching, as above explained, and the whole issues from the machine in the form of a feather-lined or fringedstrip 15 as shown in Figs. 9, 11 and 17. By adjusting the supports 11" and with them the prongs or feather arrester 11 away from or toward the picker needles 12, a less or greater quantity of feathers will be withdrawn from the nozzle and, accordingly, the layer of feathers deposited on and secured to the band 15 will be of less or greater thickness. By this co-operation of the picker-needles and the retaining fingers the feathers are spread in an even, uniform and continuous layer on the band or strip 15 as it passes below these parts and are in this condition secured to the band by the sewing mechanism.

The form of embodiment of my invention thus far described is particularly adapted for the lighter varieties of tail-feathers and feathers showing a tendency to agglomerate and which require separating and loosening action. It may be so arranged as tofeed the feathers to several sewing mechanisms.

simultaneously. For the heavier sorts of feathers, such as wing feathers, which require no loosening or separating action, the modified embodiment of my invention represented in Figs. 27 to 80, inclusive, is preferably adapted.

This modification is arranged to directly adjoin the table of the sewing apparatus. The hopper 1 with picker-needle shaft 2, and stripping fork shaft 3, the feed-nozzle 11, with the feather arresting prongs 11 and ribs 11", and the picker needle shaft 12, as well as the mechanism for actuating these parts, are the same as in the first embodiment. l/Vhat distinguishes the second embodiment from the first is that the feathers are not carried forward by suction, but that they are removed from the forked strippers 3 of the stripper-shaft and carried to the nozzle 11 by a blast or blasts of compressed air. For this purpose there is arranged at 40 an air compression pump or blower, the air from which passes through pipe 41 to the mouthpiece comprising in the present instance a plurality of jet-orifices 42, (see Figs. 28 and 29) arranged so as to blow the feathers from the forks 3 into and through the mouthpiece 11 toward the arresting prongs 11 and the picker-needle roller 12, where they are further operated on in the same manner and by the same means as in the first embodiment of my invention. The air-pipe 41 is provided with an air-cock 43, by which the rate or quantity of air-discharge into said pipe may be regulated, the regulating operation being guided by a scale 48 and a pointer 49 arranged to travel over said scale and mounted on the plug ofthe cock. In order to discharge the air from the. jet-oriiices in intermittent streams or gusts, the pipe 41 is furnished with a reciprocating slide-valve 44, Figs. 27 and 30, to alternately open and shut off said pipe, said slide 44 being raised to the dotted line position, Fig. 30, and thus opened, by a cam or tappet-wheel 46 bearing on one arm of a rock-lever fulcrumed at 451, the other arm of which is connected to said slide 44 by link 441, and thereupon quickly lowered to shut off the pipeby a spring 461 arranged to draw the lever against cam or tappet-wheel 46. In order to discharge the compressed air from the pipe 41 when the slide valve is lowered and closed, and thereby to eliminate inju ions backpressure on the compression pump or blower, a flap valve or vent 47- is arranged on the pipe 1-1 behind the slide-valve 4 1, said flapvaive being operated from the rock-lever by the connecting rod 471, connected to said rock-lever and the flap-valve, as seen in Figs. 27 and 30. From the arrangement thus shown it will be seen thatthe flap-valve will open when the pipe 41 is shut off by the slide 1 1, and shut when it is open. Under this modified form of apparatus the feathers are blown in successive allotments from the stripping forks 3 into the nozzle 11 and against the feather-arresting prongs 11, to be further acted on as in the first form of the apparatus and in the manner already described in connection therewith.

The third form ofapparatus embodying my invention, represented in Figs. 31 to 33, which is particularly adapted for short, light feathers which require a loosening or segregating action as they are fed forward, has the supply hopper 1 in combination with the picker-needle and stripping fork mechanism and the suction-pump for advancing the feathers already described in common with the first embodiment of my invention.

It is, however, distinguished therefrom by the following details: 1 I

Above the suction-pump is arranged a drum 500, into which the feathers are blown by the suction-pump 5 through the pipe having an orifice 51 of flat crosssection and arranged tangentially to the cylindrical walls of the drum, as seen in Fig. 31. By

this arrangement a circulara r current havby it, is returned to the hopper 1 by waste p pe 54, Figs. 31 and 32. As seen from the drawing, the axis of the drum 500.is horizontal, as in the case of drum 7 of the first embodiment of the'invention. In this modification the suction pump 5, the drum 500 and the corelated parts constitute the loosening mechanism. At the upper forward portion the cylindrical walls of the drum 500 are left open so as to form an outlet 56, said outlet being provided with a series of tongues 61 which are bent away outward, whereby an outlet opening 56 is formed at this part of the drum, as best seen in Figs. 31 and 33. Through this outlet '56 the drum communicates with the casing 56 ,"con'stituting a con 2' brought nearer'to or removed farther from the shaft 57, the outlet 56 is enlarged or contracted and the rotating picker-needles 58 are caused to penetrate to a greater .or less extent into the feather stream circulating or less thickness will be fed forward into the mouthpiece and thence to the band or ribbon to which the feathers are to be secured. As shown in Fig. 31, in Fig. 33 andFig 33 the rotary needle-shaft 57 is hollow and formed with perforations 64 between the needles 58. It is mounted on and encircles the stationary hollow axle 62, said axle being formed with a longitudinal slot 63 communicating with its hollow interior and arranged on the side of said axle facing the mouthpiece The interior of the axle '62 communicates with an, air-compressing pump 622'by air pipe 623, said pump and its connections being arranged and constructed as in the example shown in Figs. 27 to 30.

In operation, as the needle-shaft 57 revolves on the hollow axle 62, theperforations 6-1- of the former are successively brought in front of the slot 63, whereby the compressed at 1 past the orifice and thus a layer of greater air from the pump is caused to escape, there- I by blowing the feathers from the picken needles 58 into the nozzle 59 and thence to the sewing apparatus, which secures them to the ribbon or support which is concurrently fed thereto, as in the previously described forms of apparatus. 1 1

The needle-snaft 57 is actuated from the sewing mechanism in the same manner as in the case of the first embodiment of my in vention above described. The mouthpiece 55?, as best shown in Fig. 31, terminates in a downwardly tapering nozzle 591 which serves to direct the stream of feathers in the fo an of a flat layer onto the band or r bbon 15 passing from the reel 15 below said nozzle, as shown, and with it under the presserfoot 13 and needle bar'l. The v presserfoot 13 as seen best in Figs. 31 and 31 is formed with passages 13 to permit the free passage and escape of the compressed air from the pump 622, thereby preventing the balling up or clustering of the feathers in lumps and insuring the r attachment to the band or ribbon in a thin, even layer.

lVhere the feathers are to be secured to the ribbon or band 15 by pasting, I arrange the attaching portion of the machine in the manner represented 1n Figs. 34 and 35. Themeans for loosening, distributing and feeding the feathers to this securing device are hereinbefore described.

v The pasting mechanism is operated from shaft '73 carrying a pulley 7e revolving in the direction indicated by the arrow and transmitting its movement to pulley in the direction of the arrow by cord 7&1. Pulley 75 is keyed to shaft '76. 11 the shaft 77 is arranged a clutch-device 231 like the clutch-device 23 set forth in connection with the first embodiment of my invention, said clutch-device being actuated by rod 786K- tending from and receiving its motion from the eccentric 79, mounted on shaft 76 in the same manner as in the said first example ind as will be readily understood. The shaft 77, which is thereby intermittently rotated in the direction of the arrow, communicates its motion to the feed-roller 82 by means of the intermeshing gear wheels 80 and 81, Fig. 35. Below the feed-roller 82 is arranged a pressure roller mounted at one arm of a lever 84:, fulcrumed at S ll, a weight 85 being suspended from the other arm to yieldingly hold the roller 83 against the feed-roller 82.

, The paste or other adhesive matter is contained in the paste-trough 93 into which the paste-roller 92 dips. The paste-roller in re volving transfers the paste to the doctorroller 91, which applies the same to the band or ribbon 15 to which the feathers are to be secured, which band or ribbon is fed forward from the ribbon-reel 15 between doctor-roller 91 and the feed-roller 90, thence below the outlet of nozzle 11 and between the rollers 82 and 83, which serve to press and fasten the feathers as they are forwarded from the mouthpiece 11 by the picker-needles 12 The mouthpiece and picker-needles and co-acting parts are ar ranged and constructed as in the first embodiment of my invention. The ribbon with the feathers attached thereto then passes out of the machine over the roller 86, as shown. T he parts move and revolve as indicated by the an'ows in 3a.

[is in the case of the shaftor journal 22 in the first embodiment of the invention, the shaft 1 is connected with the means for feedi the featl'zers from the hopper 1. Thereby the feeding of feathers from said hopper will cease whenever the operation of the pasting mechanism is interrupted.

While I have herein described the modifieation illustrated in Figs. 27 to 30, inclusive, and also the modified form represented in 31. to 33, inclusive, in illus tration of the scope of my invention, and covered the same by generic claims, I do not herein specifically claim these modifications, since they are thus specifically claimed in my applications Serial Nos. 722,- 187 and 722,188, respectively, which applica tions were filed on June 24th, 1924, as divisional applications from this application.

Moreover, it is to be obser ed that, while I hav. in this specification described a feather-lined material and the process of making the same for purposes of a full disclosure of my invention and in. illustration of the uses to which it is to be applied, I do not herein claim such material or product and process since the same is claimed in and constitutes the subject-matter of my appli cation, Serial No. 722,186, filed June 2tth, 1924, which is a divisional application from this application.

What I claim and desire to secure by Let tors Patent is:

1. In an apparatus of the character set forth, a holder for feathers and a series of picker-needles arranged to enter and travel past the outlet portion of the holder, in combination with a series of stripping forks arranged to travel past the picker-needles to strip the feathers therefrom the stripping forks being arranged to straddle and engage the picker-needles as they pass them.

2. In an apparatus of the character set forth, a. holder for feathers, provided with interior longitudinal ribs, in combination with a series of picker-needles arranged to enter and travel past the outlet portion of the holder, and a series of stripping forks arranged to travel past the picker-needles to strip the feathers therefrom.

3. In an apparatus of the character set forth, a holder for feathers, in combination with a series of rotary picker-needles ar' ranged to enter and travel past the outlet portion of the holder, and a series of rotary stripping forks arrangec to travel past and to straddle the picker-needles as they pass them to strip the feathers therefrom.

l. In an apparatus of the character set forth, an interiorly and louj udinally ribbed holder and a rotary series of pickerneedles arranged to enter and to travel past the outlet portion ofv the holder, in combination with a rotary series of stripping forks :vranged to travel past and to strip the feathers from the picker-needles.

ln apparatus of. the character set forthfa holder for feathers formed with longitudinal slots at its lower outlet portion, and a ro'tal v series of pickenneedles arranged to enter said slots, in combination with a series of interior ribs arranged at the lower portion of the holder, facing saic picker ieedles and having a contour corres ending to the path of the needle extrem- 1 es, and a rotary series of stripping forks arrangedbelow the picker-needles and the ribs. Y

(5. ln an apparatus of the character setforth, a holder for feathers formed with longitudinal slots at its lower outlet por- 

